Waking up in a foreign country was something new to me. But this wasn’t just any foreign country – this was a former member of the notoriously feared Soviet Union. It wasn’t that long ago visitors from the West were not allowed here.
I couldn’t wait to get started. Of course, April was still a bit chilly. So, I waited as the earth rotated a while longer before heading out around 8:30.
I didn’t realize it when I booked the hotel, but one of the sights on my “must-see” list just happened to be a short walk down the street.
Pirita Convent was dedicated to St. Brigitta and served as a monastery for monks and nuns during the 15th and 16th centuries. Constructed between 1417 and 1436, it became one of the largest convents in Northern Europe. It met an abrupt end in 1577 when it was looted and burned by Russian troops under the command of Ivan the Terrible.
What remains is a hollowed-out shell of durable dolomite exuding mystery and, occasionally, music. The ruins, featuring a 115-foot (35m) west-wall peak, serve as a unique venue for summertime concerts.
Another prominent landmark is located just over the horizon of a gently sloping hill behind the Convent. Tallinna’s Teletorn (Tallinn TV Tower) appears much closer than it actually is. It took a 40 minute trek up the hill to fully appreciate the illusion. But, once an objective is identified, there’s no turning back!
For my journey to the tower I choose a road called Kloostrimetsa (Monastery Forest) originating near the Convent. It meanders up a low hillside, past a cemetery and botanical gardens finally reaching the tower about two miles (3.2km) from the Convent.
Like the yachting center, the tower was built to serve the 1980 Olympics. As one might expect, it was a very technical project taking five years to complete opening only one week ahead of the Olympic Games. Total height is 1,030 feet (314m) of which 407 feet (124m) consists of a steel mast featuring a collection of antennas. A restaurant/viewing platform is situated 558 feet (170m) above ground level.
The austere concrete façade projects monolithic authority consistent with its era. It’s clearly a dominating feature of Tallinn’s skyline visible for miles around. The tower’s cold, gray aesthetic has been softened in recent years by the creative use of colorful accent lighting. Currently the tower hosts transmitters and antennas for multiple radio, TV and mobile phone operators in Estonia.
In the late 1980’s Mikhail Gorbachev initiated reforms that decentralized power to the various republics, including Estonia. But, these changes in Soviet SOP were not universally embraced by members of the ruling hierarchy. Consequently, hardliners orchestrated a coup attempt against Gorbachev’s leadership on 19 August 1991.
Of course, key to a successful coup is control of telecommunications facilities. If the republic was to preserve its chance for self-determination, Estonians understood the necessity to repel any attempt made by Soviet authorities to take control of local communications. The TV tower quickly became a focal point for these efforts.
The tug-of-war in Moscow lasted three days at which point the coup attempt collapsed. But not before Estonia seized its opportunity to formally declare independence for the second time in the 20th century. As for the TV tower, bullet holes at the base are a lasting vestige of that failed coup attempt clearing the path for Estonia’s final dash for freedom.
Since then, Estonia recognizes August 20th as a national holiday in celebration of the restoration of independence it first won in 1918 (celebrated on February 24th). Incidentally, this first independence was also achieved during a time of turmoil amongst Russian overlords. The first period of freedom – lasting two decades – abruptly ended with the beginning of World War II. But, that’s another story.
After making the 40-minute walk up the hill, I arrived at the Tower several minutes before its scheduled opening. Of course, I wanted to go inside. However, there wasn’t time for this as I had arranged to meet Viki at the hotel soon. I certainly didn’t want to cause anxiety on my very first day (the American lost already!). So, I headed back down the hill. The TV Tower would wait for another day.
